Ever since Vietnamese immigrants started selling banh mi in the US, the sandwiches have been absorbed into American culinary culture, used to showcase ingredients from traditional pork and pâté to tempeh and sardines.But even if you think you know banh mi, you'll be surprised by the ones served in Vietnam's capital, where they're a completely different breed from the southern loaves that inspire most American offerings.
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"Hanoi banh mi have more variety in ingredients, from traditional egg and pâté to modern sausage and skewered pork. Ho Chi Minh City banh mi are usually the same combination of pork, pâté, chả and vegetables," says food writer Huyen Tran. "I think southern people only eat this type of banh mi and don't prefer variations like Hanoians."Banh mi in the capital are also less colorful than their southern Vietnamese counterparts, with simple garnishes that reflect the comparative subtlety of northern cuisine in contrast to the layered sweetness that pervades southern fare."Southern banh mi are filled with meat and sweet chili sauce. The sweet flavor is very strong," points out Trang Le, one of the founders of Hanoi eatery Banh-Mee.Their name is even pronounced differently in northern Vietnam, where the final "h" is pronounced like a "g." Instead of "bahn mee," think "bang me."Despite their simplicity, Hanoi banh mi are far from boring. Alongside classics like fried egg and grilled pork, vendors are creating new mashups that wouldn't be out of place in New York's culinary scene (French fries and fermented sausage, anyone?)—though likely for a fraction of the price. Here's a rundown of the city's best banh mi:
OLD SCHOOL
Banh mi pa te
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The sandwich itself has not changed in the 30 years since the shop opened in the heart of Hanoi's Old Quarter. There's no menu—just order one banh mi, and you'll get bread with a thick spread of pâté, topped with pork floss, crunchy fried shallots, cucumber, cilantro, and chili sauce (all for 20,000 dong, or about 94 cents). The loaves rest in a small electric oven, ensuring that they stay warm and crusty. To keep things authentically French, ask for an extra layer of butter.
Banh mi trung
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"Even though I'm just selling banh mi on the street, I love poetry," she said proudly.
Banh mi thit xien
THE NEW WAVE
Banh mi doner kebab
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