You got your crack alleys and tent cities, as well as wannabe artists in lofts and longtime Chinatown and Little Tokyo residents. It’s supposedly getting cooler—but people have been saying that for years. Santee Alley is like NYC’s Canal Street. There are design schools and LA’s “fashion district.” People still go here to buy drugs. Lots of day workers hang out waiting for work at Pico. There are plenty of hardworking people trying to get by; conversely, there’re plenty of lazy people dumping trash everywhere. Too bad.
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TACOS TUMBRAS A TOMASCheap, ginormous fish tacos with crispy cabbage and fish that’s neither spoiled nor soggy?Machacaandal pastor? Sign us up. Tip: There isn’t really a line at this stall, you just sort of have to shove your way up to the front and either speak Spanish or make eye contact with one of the servers to place your order. 317 S. Broadway, Ste. C 9-10, Grand Central Market, Downtown, 213-620-0477.GUELAGUETZA RESTAURANTGuelaguetza is a little mini-chain of Oaxacan restaurants. Lots of people, even in LA, don’t know what Oaxacan food is. It’s a part of Mexico, but do not go here and be all, “Yeah, gimme a bean and cheese, and a couple of those cheese enchiladas.” No. The dishes are deep and smoky, with lots ofmoleand raisins and strong spices. Thechampurradois out of this world, and make sure to get the hot chocolate with milk if you want it super-rich, with water if you don’t. And, no, we have no idea how to pronounce “Guelaguetza.” 3014 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 213-427-0608.Hop LouieHOP LOUIEThis place is known more for being a bar where the younger bartender kicks you down with free drinks all night if you kick him down with coke, and the older bartender is a cranky asshole who forgets how much liquor he’s pouring into your drink so you’re left with an almost clear vodka-orange. But believe it or not, they actually have a Chinese restaurant here too where you can gorge yourself on cheap and greasy lo mein before getting liquored up and playing Paula Abdul and Great White on the jukebox all night. There’s also a wishing fountain next door where you can “wish” that you won’t be pulled over for a DUI on the way home. 950 Mei Ling Way, Downtown, 213-628-4244.
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