The Secret Life of One of the World's Oldest Nomadic Brandy Brewers

The first time I met Aristide, it was raining heavily. Holding an umbrella as his feet were stuck in the mud, he stood there calmly surrounded by alcoholic fumes, waiting for the end of "the cook."

At 84, Aristide is a traveling distiller who's made more booze than I ever will in this lifetime.

Every October, he goes from village to village in the southern department of Aude, France for six months. At each stop, he distills brandy with fruit that villagers bring to him. During his tour, Aristide stays with a local, often making do with a small corner in a shed or the basement of a house. He has little habits in each spot.

Many would find these places uncomfortable, but for Aristide, the idea of going back every year is very uplifting. One day blends into the next; it's only the weather that changes. He never complains about the cold. In the snow, the rain, or the wind, he sits down by his alembic to keep warm. While waiting for the spirits to start flowing, he tells me about his childhood. He tells me about Algeria. Then, silence. The only sounds are of the logs crackling on the fire.

Finally, towards the end of the day, he gets tired. He's ready to go home and rest in his little hamlet in Ariège. Next year, he'll start over.

Nevermind the rain or cold. "As long as there's fruit, there's work to be done."

In the heart of the Brézillac village, Aristide has set up his alembic, almost as if it's a "mobile distillery." All of his customers are waiting. They've allowed fruit and sugar to macerate together for several months in a sealed container. This mixture will be distilled in order to obtain eau-de-vie.

When he distills in Puivert, Aristide stays in a small room in the back of a shed.

During his distilling tour, he brings a sleeping bag, a rug, and his slippers.

If the fruits "give" a lot, you can obtain up to 50 liters. Aristide gets 4€ per liter of distilled alcohol.

The Ferrands have always housed the Peyronnie family. "When my mother died, we decided to uphold this tradition and invite Aristide to stay with us," Mr. Ferrand tells me.

Early in the morning in the Sonnac orchard, Aristide begins his work day. During his stay in this village, he sleeps in a van.

Ninette, a neighbor, brings Aristide soup and coffee. Customers bring him lunch during the day. In the evenings, his hosts provide dinner.

Aristide calls a customer.

A key step in the production of eau-de-vie: measuring the alcohol proof. The first liters often fall around 70 proof. You then have to wait for more brandy to pour out in order to get everything to fall down to the desired level, between 40- and 45 proof. The alcoholmeter is a fragile instrument, but Aristide handles it with care.

The fruit came too late today so this batch is being finished with the help of a flashlight.

A customer holds up a lamp while Aristide fills out customs forms. You have to declare the quantity of distilled alcohol and pay applicable taxes (except for certain people who have special privileges and can distill without paying taxes. A law passed in 1959 now prevents these privileges from being passed down by inheritance.)

Every year, he runs into the same people who've since become true friends of his. Here, Aristide visits Juliet, who is 98 years old. They share old memories and speak of friends who have passed away.

Back home in Catou, Aristide will rest from April to October. Once the fruits are ready, he'll get back on the road.

This article originally appeared in French on MUNCHIES FR.