Back in 2011, Kris Yenbamroong decided to open Night + Market next door to his parents' Thai restaurant in Los Angeles. It wasn't a chef-driven move—it was a booze-driven one."I pictured the restaurant as a place people could come and drink. The food was honestly secondary," Yenbamroong said. "I just took over the space and gutted it and put some of my old photos on the wall and decided to pour natural wines. I had it as a drinking place, but any drinking place has to have some sort of food. That's sort of how the menu came about. It wasn't the other way around; I didn't have this big ambition to open up a restaurant."
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Shortly after the doors of his drinking den opened, Yenbamroong was approached to do a cookbook. "I obviously said no, because I felt like we had nothing to say," he said. "We were still finding our way. I never would want to do something if we didn't have something to offer."Six years and a second restaurant opening later, the chef has something to offer to the Thai food enthusiast with Night + Market: Delicious Thai Food to Facilitate Drinking and Fun-Having Amongst Friends, a 320-page cookbook he wrote with Garrett Snyder. The book's title—and its contents—perfectly embody the restaurant's ethos.
"It's really meant to be representative of what we do. It's all we do and all we really know," Yenbamroong said. "That's not our concept for this year—that's all we've ever really done."The book isn't precious. It's not supposed to sit decoratively on your coffee table. Yenbamroong intended it to be a cooking manual, one that the layman can tackle.
"Not only is it safe for beginners to Thai food, it's safe for beginners in general—people who'd never think to cook for six of their friends. That's the whole spirit of the book. It's meant to enrich people's lives. It's meant to fit into peoples lives and not the opposite," Yenbamroong said. "At the same time, the book isn't dumbed down or anything like that. At the restaurant, we're doing maybe 350 covers; at Song we're a 42, 44-seat restaurant. We're doing a lot of turns. We're not looking for ways to make things more complicated, we're looking for the opposite."
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As drinking is at the heart of the Night + Market cookbook, we asked Yenbamroong to break down some basics on how to drink through the book. Here's what he told us.
Drink wine with Thai food
If there's one MVP bottle, it's this
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