This Japanese Designer Wants to Give Ugly Chefs Coats a Makeover

In the kitchen, dishtowels and napkins don't mix. And they're not considered clothing, either. Forget about putting on that "sexy" apron with the David's statue's penis to your figure, too—you know, the one your buddy got you for ten bucks in a store by the Coliseum. For a kitchen tool that marries aesthetics and function, Japanese work wear is redefining the other side of the spectrum. Utilitarian clothing from Japan has always had a good reputation, and you don't have to be a huge cooking nerd to appreciate its style.

Founded in 1992, Hakuï is a small business that specializes in kitchen uniforms. A collaboration between Seven Uniform and designer Akira Onozuka, it recently set up shop on the third floor of the Botanique Restaurant in Paris, which transformed into the Shoku-E trade show for a weekend. Inside what is usually chef Sugio Yamaguchi's quarters stood several mannequins on display, mixing clothing from the 25th collection as well as older pieces. A Rick Owens-style studded chef coat welcomes the "fashionistos" into the locale, where the aromas of Ethiopian coffee, prepared by Japan's barista champion Miki Suzuki, await visitors. It was our chance to meet one of Hakuï's designers, Naohiko Morimoto, who was nice enough to answer our questions.

"The clothes were initially created for professionals in the field, but little by little, we've wanted to make them suitable for daily use for the average person," he tells us. "Seven Uniform's know how was especially useful in choosing fabrics so that the clothes don't appear damaged after many washes." For repeated usage in the kitchen, Hakuï selected a mixture of cotton and polyester fabrics, and sometimes linen. "It's sturdier and easier to clean. Even if you spill ketchup, wine, or chocolate, it'll come out completely," guarantees Aya Ito, the culinary journalist who organized the show, and chimed in as an unofficial spokesperson for the brand.

When asked what makes a good kitchen uniform, Morimoto turns to the clothing racks and shows off his merchandise. Over here, a chef's vest that's easy to take off "in the case of an accident." Over there, an apron with a slit that prevents you from falling face first when climbing up stairs. He also points out a small opening that allows you to reach your zipper more easily. Everything looks super comfortable. "Good kitchenwear today is two things," explains Morimoto. "A classic design and a touch of modernity. You have to develop the clothing so that it suits the needs of contemporary cooking. Today, there are no more borders between French, Italian, and Japanese cooking. You have to adapt to the new way of doing things."

For Morimoto, the hardest part is to find that balance between function and fashion. "We don't design a collection based on seasons. Before anything else, what we are drawing up is a uniform at the service of an artisan. There are constraints one must respect. It's difficult to mix certain trends with a technical garment that needs to be timeless. That balance is hard to find."

Hakuï's founder, Akira Onozuka, was born in Japan shortly after World War II. After collaborating with Issey Miyake, he launched his own brand Zucca before branching out into the uniform space. In 1994, Elle Magazine described the line he launched as "workwear for inactive people." Though Onozuka never reached levels of fame like the Yohji Yamamotos or Rei Kawakubos of the world, he has nonetheless designed clothing for the United Nations, and his "stripped down designs that focus on the essentials" have earned him several enthusiasts.

"We have certain chefs who have already placed orders," adds Morimoto, careful not to ruffle any feathers among his competitors. He swears that Hakuï isn't looking to supply large restaurant chains or take business away from companies like Bragard or Clément. "Our line is a little different. We would prefer to find a restaurant that's at our level, with a charming owner who has unique ideas and a strong personality. We also know there are a lot of Japanese chefs in Paris."

In its unisex collections, Hakuï isn't afraid to produce a few traditional items. Among the aprons, you'll find a "kappogi," which protected the kimono from food stains in the early 20th century. Morimoto's translator shares memories of her grandmother wearing the garment. "The marriage of traditional and modern allows us to answer to today's demand," resumes Morimoto. "There's no more distance today between the new generation of chefs and customers. Everything is very friendly, and the collection corresponds to this kind of dynamic cuisine. Chefs are approachable, and so they need to wear a uniform that differentiates them while remaining relaxed and casual."

After elaborating further on the necessity of a garment that can be used daily and discussing the brand's fight against people's preconceived notions that this type of clothing doesn't belong in the category of uniforms, Morimoto concludes our meeting by handing over his business card and a free pair of compression socks designed for cooks who stand all day. "We're doing something different in a very traditional sector and adding a fun, fashionable twist. We really believe that when you're better dressed, your cooking is better, too."